SMART-HAIR : Sustainable Multifunctional Adaptable Responsive Treatment for Hair
Description of the PhD project
The cosmetic and haircare industries are increasingly seeking sustainable, high-performance materials that improve hair appearance and health while reducing environmental impact. This PhDproject aims to develop an innovative bio-based coating platform for hair substrates. By combining durable, long-lasting protection with reversible, adaptive effects, the project seeks to deliver advanced hair functionalities – such as enhanced volume, anti-frizz protection, and sensory benefits – that respond intelligently to consumer needs.
Key Research Objectives
1. Sustainable material design : optimize natural, biosourced, and biodegradable polymers networks as ecofriendly alternatives to conventional syntheticcosmetic coatings.
2. Long-lasting surface adhesion : Investigate advanced interface and film-forming strategies to ensure durable cosmetic benefits that withstand everyday washing, grooming, and mechanical stress.
3. Adaptive & reversible functionalities : design dynamic material behaviors that allow for customizable, smart, and reversible hair properties.
4. Performance & efficacy evaluation : work in close collaboration with L’Oréal Research & Innovation hair experts to assess cosmetic efficacy, sensory attributes, and hair surface properties using state-of-the-art characterization tools.
What You Will Do
Working at the intersection of polymer science, soft matter physics, surface and sustainable cosmetics, your research will focus deeply on understanding surface mechanisms and physico-chemical properties at the interface :
• Investigate the fundamental interactions between hair surface and coating.
• Study the physico-chemical properties of polymer layers.
• Explore adaptive and responsive material behaviors enabling reversible hair benefits.
You will partner closely with academic researchers and L’Oréal R&I experts using state-of-the-art characterization tools.
Keywords
Hair / Hydrogel / Biopolymer / Stimuli-responsive / Grafting / Click chemistry
Research Unit, UMR number and acronym
ESPCI - Sciences et Ingénierie de la Matière Molle. SIMM. UMR7615
Description of the research Unit/subunit
The SIMM laboratory (Sciences et Ingénierie de la Matière Molle) at ESPCI Paris is a leading interdisciplinary research unit dedicated to soft matter science, at the interface between physics, chemistry, and materials science. Jointly affiliated with ESPCI Paris, CNRS, and Université PSL, SIMM develops fundamental and applied research on polymers, colloids, hydrogels, interfaces, and biomaterials. The laboratory is internationally recognized for its expertise in the design and characterization of responsive soft materials, surface functionalization, adhesion, wetting, and transport phenomena. SIMM combines advanced experimental approaches with strong theoretical and physico-chemical understanding to address challenges in healthcare, energy, sustainable materials, and cosmetics. The laboratory offers a highly collaborative and international research environment, with numerous academic and industrial partnerships. Its close interactions with companies such as L’Oréal provide an ideal framework for developing innovative and sustainable materials with strong application potential.
3i Aspects of the proposal
Intersectoriality
The PhD project has a strong intersectoral dimension through the close collaboration between the SIMM laboratory at ESPCI Paris and L’Oréal Research & Innovation. Initiated this year, the partnership already includes a 12-month postdoctoral project on biopolymers for hair coatings, involving the SIMM (Yvette Tran, Nadège Pantoustier) and S3M laboratories (Amandine Guérinot, Thomas Aubineau) at ESPCI together with L’Oréal’s Hair Fiber & Scalp and Innovation Ingredients departments. Building on these first developments, the PhD will reinforce knowledge transfer between academia and industry. The project combines expertise in soft matter, polymers, and surface functionalization with industrial objectives related to next-generation haircare technologies. It also offers strong innovation potential for L’Oréal through the development of sustainable, multifunctional cosmetic coatings based on biosourced and biodegradable materials, contributing to high-performance and environmentally friendly haircare solutions.
International
The PhD project has a strong international dimension through the combined environments of L’Oréal, and ESPCI Paris, all of which are highly involved in international research networks and collaborations. As a multinational company, L’Oréal offers access to worldwide research and innovation centers. In parallel, ESPCI maintains numerous academic collaborations with leading international institutions in the fields of soft matter, polymers, and biomaterials.
The PhD candidate will therefore benefit from opportunities for mobility abroad, including the international secondment of at least one month. This mobility could take place either within a L’Oréal international research center or through academic collaborations. In particular, a research stay in Asia (Japan or Thailand) could be organized through universities with which Yvette Tran has strong connections. Such a secondment would be highly relevant for the project, especially for developing expertise in gel systems and responsive soft materials.
Interdisciplinarity
The PhD project is highly interdisciplinary, combining concepts and methodologies from chemistry, physics, materials science, and soft matter engineering. A major part of the work focuses on polymer chemistry, including the synthesis, functionalization, and interaction with substrates. These aspects require expertise in macromolecular design, surface chemistry, and reaction engineering.
The project also strongly integrates physics through the study of hydrogel swelling behavior, interfacial friction, adhesion, and mechanical properties of the biopolymer coatings on hair fibers. In addition, the research involves physico-chemical investigations of stimuli-responsive systems, including reversible interactions, encapsulation/release mechanisms, and environmental responsiveness to humidity, pH, or temperature. By bridging molecular chemistry with soft matter physics and responsive materials science, the project aims to develop innovative multifunctional coatings for advanced and sustainable cosmetic applications.
Name of the supervisor
Yvette TRAN (yvette.tran@espci.psl.eu)
Name of the co-supervisor
Luca POLACCHI (luca.polacchi@loreal.com)
Expected profile of the candidate
The candidate should hold a Master’s degree in Materials Science, Physical Chemistry, Polymer Science, or a related field. A strong interest in polymer chemistry, soft matter, surface science, and physico-chemistry is expected. Previous experience through Master’s internships or research projects in materials, polymers, hydrogels, coatings, or surface functionalization will be highly appreciated. Knowledge of characterization techniques for polymers and interfaces would be an asset.
The project requires a motivated and curious candidate who enjoys working at the interface between chemistry, physics, and materials science. The ability to evolve in interdisciplinary and intersectoral environments, combining academic research and industrial innovation, is essential. The candidate should demonstrate autonomy, scientific rigor, strong communication skills, and an interest in sustainable materials and advanced cosmetic applications.
Important dates
Call for applications : from September 1st to October 31st 2026
Eligibility check results : November
3i Committee evaluation results : December
Interviews from the shortlisted candidates with the Selection Committee : January 2027
Start of the PhD : March 1st 2027
Euraxess job offer : https://euraxess.ec.europa.eu/jobs/462108